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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Watch 2021

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar watch for 2021 continues what has become an established tradition for Bulgari: a new year means a new world record in ultra-thin watchmaking. This time, as the name suggests, it’s time for the perpetual calendar to take its thinnest form yet and do so in featherweight titanium or heavyweight platinum.

In all walks of life, but perhaps most spectacularly in sport, with each decade a new player emerges who not only excels in sheer performance, but also making it seem like everything is. annoyingly easy. Like you or I could do right after them. Since 2014, this is the seventh time that Bulgari has set a new world record for ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking. And while these releases seem to come at the right time every year, it’s worth remembering that Bulgari pulls off something extremely difficult – while making it, in my eyes at least, remarkably easy.

408 components are assembled in a 2.75 mm thick disc of wheels, springs and pinions. The resulting Bulgari BVL305 caliber is pressed into a case just 5.80mm thick.

That’s four cents stacked on top of each other – which is probably the most economical way to experience the thinness of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar).

The Bulgari movement manufacturer in Le Sentier, Switzerland clearly used many of the solutions it developed for previous Octo Finissimo watches, such as the combination of a micro-rotor with a particularly compact barrel and balance bridge and thin. Every final side space has been carefully allocated, as revealed by official work in progress images of the caliber being assembled.

This one, showing the dial side of the movement, reveals a jam of levers, springs, cams, arms, wheels and screws, all tucked away in an area left available by the barrel and micro-rotor of the automatic winding system on the other side. Not that I want to burst anyone’s bubble, but a very large part of modern perpetual calendar watches use perpetual calendar modules stacked on top of regular base calibers. Needless to say, the BVL 305 is an integrated movement where the position and height of each last part had to be uniquely assigned – and the resulting movement, in its entirety, is as thin (or thinner) as the modules placed on it. the basic movements.

A fun extra, though probably insane and heavy, would have been a platinum bracelet with platinum links to match the platinum blue dial version of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. Truth be told, in my previous encounters with Octo leather strap watches, I haven’t been much of a fan of the way the stiff, padded straps extend the “height” of the watches beyond the edges of my wrist. . Definitely less of a problem on thicker cuffs. Running to the Rescue is the sandblasted titanium bracelet which is both lightweight and super comfortable. Sandblasted titanium – a signature material for every record-breaking Octo Finissimo to date – is a stellar choice for these watches impressive for its high-tech nature and aesthetic. The overall diameter is quoted at 40mm, which is another welcome achievement after a decade of “oversized” watches.

As we keep saying in these articles: These records probably wouldn’t have been possible without Bulgari’s quietly established in-house manufacturing facilities, which include the acquisition of an ultra-high-end dial maker and the establishment of a dedicated production of cases and bracelets. as well as Bulgari’s own movement manufacture. These facilities, although spread across Switzerland, could work closely together to ensure that every major and minor component is at the cutting edge of engineering and design – this is where you need to be if you’re aiming for records. of the world in an industry that is hundreds of years old.

The record price for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar in titanium is $ 59,000 and in platinum is $ 89,000. You can find out more on the brand’s website.

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