Stylish calendars

Patek Philippe unveils its new watches for 2022, including annual calendars and a Bonkers Blue World Time

Naturally, when it came to predicting which new deals Patek-Philippe would unveil at Watches & Wonders in Geneva this year, there was much talk of a certain ultra-iconic timepiece, released in 1976 and first inspired by watchmaking folklore, when its creator Gerald Genta peered through the porthole of a transatlantic liner while having lunch.

Almost 50 years after its introduction, the Nautilus can be called the world’s most prestigious sports watch without fear of hyperbole. Alas, there was supposed to be no update now, in another year as we approach its 50th anniversary.

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The version of the watch that Patek talked the most about with the crowds in Geneva today, and with which we begin our roundup below, deserves its place at the top of the list.

Ref. 5326G annual travel time calendar

Patek Philippe Ref.  5326G annual travel time calendar

Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G annual travel time calendar

You have two pretty important things going on here. One, the annual calendar complication, originated in the late 1990s when Patek Philippe engineers devised a wheel and pinion mechanism that could distinguish between 30 and 31 day months, meaning that it only had to be adjusted once a year.

The other, the Travel Time complication, was conceived in the mid-1950s, when Patek commissioned watchmaking legend Louis Cottier to create a piece capable of jumping time zones without the traveling wearer removing the watch from the wrist.

Now the two come together for the first time, in the form of a white gold coin that will adjust the date (for 11 out of 12 months of the year) when the time zone is corrected.

Home to the new self-winding caliber movement, which contains eight patents in all, is a new Calatrava case with flanks that feature a guilloche studded pattern, while the dial’s white gold applied numerals and hour/hand hands minutes with beige luminescent coating, on a textured anthracite gray background of the dial, complete a vintage look.

Suitcase size: 41 millimeters
Case and strap material: White gold/Beige or black calfskin
Caliber: 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
Power reserve: 48 hours
Price: Approximately $76,882

Ref. Moon phases 7121/200G

Patek Philippe Ref.  Moon phases 7121/200G

Patek Philippe Ref. Moon phases 7121/200G

The moon phase complication was introduced to the world by Patek Philippe in 1925. Now, nearly a century later, this version introduces a whimsical, nocturnal iteration to the canon.

The aesthetic is very Patek: applied Breguet numerals, white gold pear-shaped hands, delicately domed sapphire crystal, blue alligator strap. In this version, however, the sparkle factor is enhanced: the piece’s white gold case houses a blue sunburst dial surrounded by a bezel set with 132 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.09 ct) using the “Lace” technique. .

The moon phases element, on the other hand, brings impressive precision, deviating from the true lunar cycle only one day in 122 years.

Suitcase size: 33 millimeters
Case and strap material: White gold
Caliber: 215 HP
Power reserve: 44 hours
Price: Approximately $42,581

Ref. 5205R Annual Moon Phase Calendar in Olive Green

Patek Philippe Ref.  5205R Annual Moon Phase Calendar in Olive Green

Patek Philippe Ref. 5205R Annual Moon Phase Calendar in Olive Green

From the lush shades of the jungle to the darker hues of the forest, green dials have been floating at the heart of the watch world for quite some time and business shows no signs of slowing down. Now the Blue Sunburst 5205G has a new sibling with an olive-colored sunburst, making it one of many Patek drops today to take on a green hue (including striking lacquered greens on the calendar chronograph Perpetual Ref.5270P and the 5270P Chronograph Perpetual Calendar).

The olive dial contrasts with its neighbors – pink gold case, skeletonized lugs, dauphine hands and applied indexes – and the hand-patinated two-tone olive green alligator leather strap with pin buckle completes the ensemble beautifully.

Once again, this one-per-year moon phase mechanism, invented and patented by Patek Philippe in 1996, works behind the scenes.

Suitcase size: 40 millimeters
Case and strap material: Rose gold
Caliber: 324 S QA LU 24H/206
Power reserve: 45 hours
Price: Approximately $55,592

Ref. 5374/300P Diamond Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe Ref.  5374/300P Diamond Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe Ref. 5374/300P Diamond Minute Repeater and Perpetual Calendar

Not one for wallflowers: Patek calls this, a platinum version of a piece released in white gold with a blue enamel dial last year, its “Haute Joaillerie,” or fine jewelry, version, and with good reason. Baguette-cut diamonds surround the middle case, the minute repeater slider and the inclined lugs. The concave bezel has more, a double row in fact (can you imagine the intricate diamond cutting involved?), and there’s even more on the integrated bezel flange, broken at intervals with sapphire hour markers blue.

It’s not for those who like to be aural inconspicuous either: Patek refers to the sound units of the minute repeater, which have been wrapped almost twice around the movement to maximize the liveliness and intensity of the sound, like “cathedral” gongs.

Buyers can choose a sapphire crystal caseback (instead of platinum) if they want to take the stage for a hand-finished movement with a guilloché 22-carat gold mini-rotor. The strap is in blue alligator leather.

Suitcase size: 42 millimeters
Case and strap material: Platinum
Caliber: R 27 Q
Power reserve: 48 hours
Price: Price on request

Ref. 5230P World Time

Patek Philippe Ref.  5230P World Time

Patek Philippe Ref. 5230P World Time

One of three new worldtime watches introduced by Patek this year – a triple tribute to the man who invented it, the aforementioned Louis Cottier in the 1930s – it is the first reference 5230 to be offered in platinum. with a blue dial – with a hand-guilloché basketwork dial in the center and a blue strap.

Around the circumference of the dial, the names of the cities corresponding to the 24 time zones are printed in white on a blue background, with a gradient black border enhancing readability. Its inner part sees the local time of the selected time zone displayed, at 12 o’clock, by a skeleton hour hand inspired by the constellation of the “Southern Cross”. A diamond-shaped minute hand completes the pleasing visual ensemble of the dial.

The bezel is thin and sober, the wing-shaped lugs and the strap is in navy blue calfskin with cream stitching, nubuck finish and platinum folding clasp.

Suitcase size: 38.5 millimeters
Case and strap material: Platinum
Caliber: 240HU
Power reserve: 48 hours
Price: $70,968

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